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TV Mounting Price Guide: What to Charge for Installs in 2026

A basic stud-wall TV mount typically runs $100-$200 in labor, with cable hiding, fireplaces and masonry adding more. See ranges, a worked quote and add-ons.

Published · HandyBook Team

A typical handyman charge for mounting a TV on a standard stud wall is roughly $100 to $200 in labor when the customer supplies the mount, and more once you add in-wall cable concealment, masonry, a fireplace or a very large screen. These are rough estimates, not survey data. Your real number depends on your market, your hourly rate and what is inside the wall.

This guide shows how to price TV mounting from the ground up: the ranges, what pushes a job up or down, how long it takes, a line-item quote you can copy, and the mistakes that turn a $150 job into a free repair.

Typical TV mounting price ranges (estimates)

Prices below are labor-only unless stated. They vary widely by region, access, TV size and your overhead. Use them as a sanity check against your own math, not a rate card.

JobTypical labor rangeTypical time
Mount on wood studs, customer supplies mount, up to ~55"$100-$17545-75 min
Mount on wood studs, 55"-75"$125-$22560-90 min
75"+ TV (two-person lift)$175-$30090-120 min
In-wall cable and power concealment (add-on)$100-$3001-2.5 hr
Mount on brick, block, concrete or stone$150-$3501.5-3 hr
Mount over a fireplace (above masonry)$200-$4502-3.5 hr
Articulating or full-motion mount (add-on to above)$25-$75+15-30 min
Soundbar or small-device mounting (add-on)$25-$7515-30 min

If you supply the mount, add the mount at cost plus markup (see the material markup guide). A tilting mount for a mid-size TV and a full-motion mount for a large one are different price points, so price the mount per job instead of using one flat number.

What drives the price up or down

Wall type

The wall decides your hardware, your tools and your risk.

  • Wood studs behind drywall: the easy baseline. Find studs, mark a level line, drive lag bolts.
  • Metal studs: need toggle bolts or a mount rated for metal studs. Slower and less forgiving; price above baseline.
  • Plaster and lath: brittle and uneven. Pilot holes, a slower approach and often a wood backer. Price above baseline.
  • Brick, block, concrete, stone: needs a hammer drill, masonry anchors and the right bits. Dust control and bit wear belong in the price.
  • Tile, glass or stone veneer: break one tile and the job is a repair. Quote higher and sometimes decline.

Where the TV is going

  • Over a fireplace: heat, soot and height complicate it. Many TV makers specify a maximum operating temperature, and a mantel can radiate heat upward. Tell customers to check the TV manual and the fireplace use. Also expect a high mount, which means a pull-down mount or a tilt that the customer may dislike. Quote more and put the limits in writing.
  • Corner or angled walls: full-motion mounts, more measuring, more time.
  • Stairs, high ceilings or tall walls: ladder time and a second person.

TV size and weight

Larger screens are heavier and awkward. Past about 65 inches, plan on a second person or a lift technique, and confirm the mount's rated weight and VESA pattern before you arrive. The VESA pattern is the standard bolt-hole spacing on the back of the TV; the mount must support the TV's pattern and weight.

Cable concealment

There are three common levels, and customers rarely know the difference.

  1. Surface raceway (cord cover): stick-on channel painted to match. Fast and cheap. Typical add-on is the low end of the range.
  2. In-wall pass-through for low-voltage cables: HDMI and similar cables go through the wall using brush plates or low-voltage wall plates. Moderate effort.
  3. In-wall power: a listed recessed power kit that puts an outlet behind the TV, usually tied to an existing receptacle. This is where licensing and code come in.

Never run a standard power cord inside a wall cavity. That is a fire and code problem, and the warning belongs in your quote and on your customer's mind. Use a listed in-wall power kit installed to the instructions, or refer the work to a licensed electrician. Electrical work rules vary by state and sometimes by city, so check your state contractor or electrical board before you add an outlet or touch wiring.

Fishing cables also depends on what is in the wall: fire blocking, insulation and old wiring can make a "ten-minute" run into an hour. Price a discovery buffer or write that conduit routing is quoted once the wall is opened.

Customer-supplied vs. supplied mount

Customer supplies mountYou supply mount
Your marginLabor onlyLabor plus markup on the mount
RiskWrong mount, missing hardware, wrong VESAYou own the fit and the returns
Trip impactMay need a second visit if parts are missingShop once, install once
WarrantyCover your install, not the mountCover your install; manufacturer covers the mount

If the customer supplies it, ask for the mount model and the TV model before you book. A quick text with a photo of both labels saves a wasted trip.

How long does TV mounting take?

Plan on these ranges and add your travel:

  • Basic stud-wall mount: 45 to 90 minutes including unboxing, leveling and cable tidy.
  • Plus in-wall cable run: another 60 to 150 minutes depending on the wall.
  • Masonry or fireplace: 1.5 to 3.5 hours, with more time for drilling and layout.

Time yourself on your next five jobs and compare it to the table. Your hourly rate times your own measured time is a better price than any range in this post. The hourly rates guide shows how to build that rate.

Materials and tools checklist

Materials

  • Mount (tilt, fixed or full-motion) sized for the TV's weight and VESA pattern
  • Lag bolts and washers (usually included with the mount)
  • Toggle bolts or masonry anchors when studs are not available
  • Cable management: raceway, brush plates or an in-wall power and low-voltage kit
  • HDMI cable if the customer needs a longer or new one
  • Wall plates, anchors, screws and touch-up paint or patch for any holes

Tools

  • Stud finder (and a magnet or small drill bit to confirm)
  • 4-foot level or laser level
  • Drill/driver and bits, plus a hammer drill for masonry
  • Socket set, wrench set and a torque-aware approach for lag bolts
  • Drywall saw, fish tape or glow rods, flashlight or borescope
  • Painter's tape, pencil, tape measure
  • Moving blanket or foam for the TV face-down

Worked quote example

The job: hang a 65" TV on a wood-stud living room wall, tilt mount supplied by you, with an in-wall power and HDMI kit behind the TV. Estimated 3 hours total. Your labor rate is $80 per hour and you apply a 25% markup on materials.

Line itemCalculationAmount
Mount install, level, secure to studs1.5 hr x $80$120.00
In-wall power and HDMI kit install1.5 hr x $80$120.00
Tilt mount (cost $60, 25% markup)$60 x 1.25$75.00
Power and cable kit, hardware (cost $40, 25% markup)$40 x 1.25$50.00
Trip chargeflat$40.00
Total$405.00

Checks: labor is $240, materials are $125 ($100 cost plus $25 markup), trip is $40, so $240 + $125 + $40 = $405.

Notes to include on the quote:

  • "Includes patching and touch-up of cable access holes; wall painting not included."
  • "Assumes an existing outlet within reach for the in-wall power kit and accessible wall cavity. Obstructions (fire blocking, insulation, wiring) quoted separately."
  • "Customer to confirm TV model and weight before install day."

Add-ons that make sense

Offer these at the quote stage, not after you are on the ladder.

  • Soundbar mount or shelf: quick, high margin.
  • Streaming device or game console mounting and cable tidy: 15 to 30 minutes.
  • Second TV or room: a lower per-unit price when it is the same visit, because the trip charge does not repeat.
  • Surge protector or power strip swap: a small materials sale.
  • Wall patch and paint touch-up: for old holes from a previous mount.
  • Basic setup: connecting inputs, updating firmware and installing apps. Say clearly what is and is not covered, so you do not become the customer's permanent tech support.
  • Hidden cord run to a console or cabinet: a surface raceway version is cheaper than in-wall.

Common mistakes in TV mounting pricing

  • Quoting by TV size only. Wall type, concealment and height matter as much as inches.
  • Skipping the stud confirmation. Drywall anchors are not a plan for a heavy TV. Confirm studs with a finder and a test, and use a mount rated for the load.
  • Not checking weight and VESA first. A mount that does not fit means a second trip on your dime.
  • Running a regular power cord in the wall. See the warning above.
  • Forgetting the heat question on fireplace jobs. Put a note about manufacturer temperature limits in writing and let the customer decide.
  • Charging no trip fee for small jobs. Fuel and drive time are real costs. Our emergency call pricing guide explains how to structure trip and minimum charges.
  • Giving the quote on the phone only. A text with a photo of the wall and the TV model, then a written line-item quote, protects both sides.

A short script for the customer

Copy and adapt this text before you book:

Thanks for reaching out. To quote the TV mount accurately, can you send: 1) the TV size and model, 2) a photo of the wall where it will go, 3) whether you want cables hidden in the wall, and 4) whether you have the mount or want me to supply one? I will send a written quote today.

When you are ready to send a price, follow the format in how to write a handyman quote so the labor, materials and trip charge are separated.

Keep your quotes consistent

Repeat jobs like TV mounting are where saved line items earn their keep. HandyBook lets you build a quote from line items you reuse, send it for online acceptance with an e-signature, and turn it into an invoice with a pay-by-card link when the job is done. SMS delivery of quotes and invoices is on the Pro plan; email delivery is on every plan. See the quoting and estimates feature and the pricing page for current plans.

FAQ

How much should a handyman charge to mount a TV?

For a standard stud wall with a customer-supplied mount, many handymen land somewhere around $100 to $200 in labor. Add the mount at cost plus markup if you supply it, plus any in-wall concealment, masonry work or fireplace complexity. Use your own hourly rate and measured time to set the number.

Should I charge more to hide the wires?

Yes, treat concealment as a separate line item. A surface cord cover is cheap and quick, while in-wall low-voltage and power kits take much longer and carry risk. For power, use a listed in-wall kit or refer to a licensed electrician, and check your state's rules before touching wiring.

Is it OK to mount a TV over a fireplace?

It can be done, but quote it higher and disclose the risks. Heat from a working fireplace can exceed what the TV is built to tolerate, and the viewing height is often uncomfortably high. Ask the customer to check the TV manual and decide whether they want a pull-down mount or another location. Write that conversation into the quote.

What is the minimum charge for TV mounting?

Many handymen set a minimum between one and two hours of labor, so a tiny job still covers the trip and setup. The right minimum is the amount that makes the shortest job worth driving to. Calculate it from your hourly rate plus fuel and drive time.

Should I supply the mount or have the customer buy it?

Supplying it adds a markup and removes the risk of the wrong bracket, but it makes you responsible for fit and returns. Customer-supplied mounts are fine if you confirm the TV model, weight and VESA pattern first. Whichever you pick, state it on the quote.

Do I need a license to mount a TV?

Mounting a TV is typically handyman-level work, but the in-wall power part may fall under electrical rules. Licensing and handyman exemptions vary by state, so check with your state contractor or electrical licensing board before you cut into walls or add outlets.

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